GENUA: The invention of the Farinata

And that certainly didn't happen exactly – – in 1284, when a Genoese galley set out to accompany some merchant ships on their way to the Levant. Even then, this coastal area was an important transshipment point for Oriental goods, which were brought over the Indian Ocean and the Asian caravan routes. They wanted to exchange them for European products such as cloth.

On that trip, the ships got into a violent storm. Because of the roaring waves and the fierce winds, the ships came in extreme distress. Chaos raged on our galley, too. The ship was lifted to wave mountains. And fell back into the foaming spray. The rain whipped sails, the planks creaked and growled under the swell, The sailors aboard – used to the rough sea-prayed and hoping for the abating of the primal powers.

Inside the ship, too, it went under and over it. In the provider room, barrels, boxes and bags swirled. Much fractured, tore, so grain, oil, salt and the legumes were swirled in their barrels. Seawater penetrated the storage room and mingled with the scarce food on board. But that didn't matter in those moments of supreme need. Now the crew struggled to survive naked.

After days of great effort and fear, weather and sea calm down. Slowly order came into the daily routine. The most serious damage has been repaired. But by no means was the danger to survival averted.

 First, it was necessary to determine one's position. This was not so easy in these times, because the technique of the compass was not yet mature and an exact determination of the degrees of length unknown.

Thus, one had to gain time – and provide enough food for the men on the ship. With a detailed inventory of the Proviantraume, the disaster was then recognized: Many of the food carried were spoiled and poured up by seawater. Some things could be saved and were also edible. Only that would not be enough! But then there were front ships this thick, disgusting porridge! With a detailed assessment of this mass by the Proviant Master, it was recognized that they were well-bruised chickpeas – also called ceci –. ' Not very appetizing to look at, but better than nothing ' have probably been said to each other by our sailors. And so there was this porridge from then on for lunch and dinner. In the days that followed, someone probably came up with the idea – sure the ship's chef – to let the porridge dry on deck in the sun to enhance the flavour. So he was shaped into small flats and distributed on the deck in the sun. At that moment, the Italian pancake – the Farinata (farina = flour) was – invented. Clearly, the court created at the time had been able to save the lives of the sailors on their return journey to the Riviera. Otherwise, there would not be this delicious speciality today. That's how some still tell it today!

In any case, our galley was able to return to its home port. What has become of the other merchant ships, we don't know. But presumably they too have been able to continue their journey and possibly similar life-saving events have occurred in their cargo holds.

Our ship's chef was – like all survivors – very happy about his rescue, but was fed up with seafaring and from now on just wanted to do what he felt called to do: KNOW.

Preferably, of course, in his own eatery. But there were already a lot of them in Genoa. And so had to be a good business idea! Why not benefit from the experienced suffering? So he continued to develop his chickpea poodials. And since even on the Riviera the sun doesn't always shine, he came up with the idea of drying and baking the flakes not only in the sun, but also in the wood-fired oven. Business was going well!

But the story continues!

One evening our gourmet master waited for guests in his harbour pub in Porto Marina. Then an old fisherman joined him and they chatted about God and the world over a bottle of Rosso. Of course, our ship chef also told of his adventures at sea and the happy rescue by the Farinata. Then the old fisherman laughed and told him an old legend, which also revolved around the ceci.

Basically, his story is old hat after all. Because the Farinata would have invented the ancient Romans. They would have baked the porridge of chickpeas on their shields in the sun in order to prepare a simple meal without interrupting their campaigns. 

It was clear to our chef that he would not tell this legend any further, already because of the jeopardy of the exclusivity of his invention. But the idea of sign-baking led to him now preparing his chickpea porridge in the wood-fired oven on a sheet metal. Since this recipe was a great success, he soon opened another Farinata trattoria in the port of Genoa. And that's how the world's first Flad chain came into being.

The Farinate di ceci is probably one of the oldest dishes in Liguria and traditionally belongs to the army of people's cuisine. In fact, it has been said that this dish was already known in the Middle Ages. It is said to have really originated in Genoa.

The Farinata – an unexpected and unusual treat. Quite simply made from chickpea flour, water, olive oil and a little salt you can enjoy it as a side dish or even better as a snack – fresh – with a glass of red wine. Traditionally, of course, it should be baked in a wood-fired oven.

You can try it yourself. The Farinata also succeeds in the home oven.

For 4 people:

You need: 125 grams of chickpea flour, a quarter of a litre of water, a tablespoon of olive oil, some pepper and salt.

Mix water, oil and chickpeas without lump-forming. Season with salt and pepper. Leave to stand at room temperature for at least two hours. Skim off the resulting foam. Pour on an oiled baking tray, about 1 centimeter tall. Bake for 25 minutes at 240 degrees until golden and crispy.

Enjoy your meal!